Who’s who in Holy Week in Malaga

Easter week in Malaga can look completely bizarre if you’ve never seen it before. Thousands of people in pointed hoods carrying candles as they walk through the streets. Massive platforms that seem to float above the crowds. Men carrying what looks like several tonnes on their shoulders. A single voice singing from a balcony that makes an entire procession stop dead.

If you don’t know what you’re looking at, it’s easy to feel lost. This guide breaks down exactly who does what during Holy Week in Malaga, so when you’re standing in a crowd watching a procession pass, you’ll actually understand what’s happening in front of you.

For dates, schedules, and practical logistics, check our Easter in Malaga FAQ guide. For specific experiences and what to do during the week, see our 10 Things to Do at Easter article. This one focuses on decoding the processions themselves.

Quick guide to a procession

All processions in Malaga take the following order:

1. Guides carrying a cross, lantern and symbols of the brotherhood open the procession, leading the way.
2. Nazarenos de Cristo dressed in the brotherhood colours and carrying candles are next, preceeding the Christ throne.
3. Incense bearers and the main representatives of the brotherhood follow.
4. The throne carrying the Christ figure is next.
5. Nazarenos de la Virgen follow.
6. The throne of Our Lady is next.
7. Women dressed in black with mantillas usually follow the Our Lady throne.
8. Bands bring up the rear of the procession.
9. Civilians follow afterwards.

The brotherhoods

Easter in Malaga wouldn’t exist without the brotherhoods, known as hermandades or cofradías. The city has over 40 of them and the oldest dates back to 1505. These religious associations carry out charitable acts all year round but they come into their own during Holy Week when their processions take centre stage in the city.

Did you know? The brotherhoods in Malaga all belong to an umbrella association that is responsible for organising the itineraries for the processions. It’s known as the Agrupación de Cofradías.

The processions

Between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday, dozens of processions take place in Malaga. All different but with similar components.

Thrones

The giant thrones that form the centrepieces for all processions in Malaga are known as tronos. They’re giant platforms supported by up to eight metal beams carrying the figures and decoration. Some figures date back centuries and one of the oldest is the Cristo de Mena, carried by the Legionnaires on Maundy Thursday.

Processions generally have two thrones: one carrying the Christ figure and the other, the Virgin. The throne carrying Christ is usually less elaborate and without a canopy. The Virgin, on the other hand, tends to be bigger and brighter and has a large ornate canopy over the figure. The Christ throne always goes ahead of the Virgin.

Did you know? The largest throne in Malaga is the Last Supper (above).

The throne bearers

Unlike those in the rest of Andalucia, the thrones in Malaga are huge and extremely heavy; the largest need 250 people (usually men) to carry them around. Each throne bearer takes a position with their shoulder under the beam and bearing the weight. They’re usually dressed in suits or the colours of their brotherhood. Some are blindfolded and you’ll often see some walking barefoot as a sign of penitence.

Did you know? Throne bearers need endurance as well as strength. The longest procession during Holy Week in Malaga lasts for 13 hours.

The mayordomo

Getting these giant cargos around the narrow streets in Malaga takes some doing so each throne has a mayordomo. His job is to guide the throne to make sure it fits round every corner. He’s also in charge of how long the throne bearers get to rest. To let them know when they can stop and have to start again, he taps the bell at the front of the throne.

Did you know? The bearers of the two thrones from the Hermandad de la Salud on Palm Sunday have to carry the thrones out of the church on their knees.

The penitents

Known as nazarenos, the penitents form the main body of all processions in Malaga. They wear tall black conical hats (capirotes) that cover their faces so you only see their eyes. This tradition dates back centuries and was introduced to allow sinners to be anonymous. They also wear long robes in the colour of their brotherhood. They carry crosses, candles or staffs depending on their rank and some walk barefoot for extra penitence. Men, women and children may be nazarenos.

Did you know? Up to 1,000 nazarenos accompany each procession.

The women

You’ll also see women dressed in black walking in the procession, usually behind the Virgin. All wear a black mantilla, usually elaborate and often a family heirloom, held in place by a tortoiseshell fan in their hair.

Did you know? The nazarenos on the Palm Sunday processions are mostly children who carry palm leaves instead of candles.

 

The music

Apart from the final stages of the processions on Good Friday that take place in silence, all Easter processions in Malaga include a lot of loud music. The Christ figure is accompanied by a band made up of trumpets and drums while the Virgin gets a full band. During the most solemn moments, you’ll just hear the sound of drums.

Did you know? Processions often include a saeta (a flamenco lament) sung spontaneously by a spectator, often in a balcony. The song is usually dedicated to the Virgin and the sound is one of the most spine-tingling you’ll hear at Easter in Malaga.

The flowers

All thrones are covered in flowers and you’ll see literally thousands of roses, carnations and lilies during the Holy Week processions in Malaga. The Virgen de las Penas (procession on Tuesday during Easter week) boasts a cape of flowers that stretches for several metres behind her throne.

Did you know? People watching from their balconies often throw rose petals down on the throne as they parade below.

The incense

Some penitents carry incense burners that they sway to and fro during the procession. This intense smell lingers in the city streets long after the procession has passed. Rivalling it is the scent of orange blossom from the trees in full bloom in the city centre.

Did you know? Malaga has an entire museum dedicated to Holy Week. Visit it in Calle Muro de San Julián, a block south of Calle Carretería, off Calle Nosquera.

The spectators

Malaga loves Easter and the locals turn out in their thousands to watch the processions. Unlike some parts of Andalucia, Holy Week in Malaga isn’t a time for quiet religious reflection. Instead you’ll find that spectators clap when the thrones pass by and devotees of the different virgins often shout ‘¡Viva!’ when she passes.

Did you know? Bar Merchanas in Calle Andrés Pérez has an Easter theme with memorabilia on the walls and Holy Week music giving you the chance to get a taste of Easter in Malaga at any time of the year.

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Photo credit: (c) José Hidalgo & Turismo y Planificación Costa del Sol – Málaga S.L.U./www.visitacostadelsol.com