A day at the lakes in Malaga

Estimated reading time: 10 minutes

Last updated: May 2026

Like most visitors to Malaga, your idea of beach will be by the coast. But just 60km inland, three vast turquoise reservoirs sit in the folds of the mountains and house some pretty good sandy beaches too. Quiet, pretty but without the beach bars and sunbeds down on the Mediterranean.

The Conde del Guadalhorce lakes occupy a wide valley ringed by limestone peaks in some of the most dramatic countryside in Andalusia. The water is that particular shade of blue-green that makes you want to get in it immediately, the mountains come down to the shoreline and eagles and vultures circle overhead. It is, by any measure, a beautiful place to spend a day.

In summer, this is where Malaga locals come when they’ve had enough of crowded beaches. The lakes offer something the coast can’t – space, shade, and far fewer people. Add pedalos and kayaks for hire and a handful of good lakeside restaurants, and you have the kind of unhurried afternoon that’s impossible to find on the Costa del Sol in August.

And if you want to earn your lunch, the Caminito del Rey – one of the most spectacular walks in Europe – starts nearby. The two go together naturally: walk the gorge in the morning, collapse by the water in the afternoon. It’s one of the best days out Malaga province has to offer.

When to visit

The lakes work in almost any season, but what you get from a visit changes significantly depending on when you go.

Summer (June to August) is peak season and for good reason. The water is warm enough to swim in, the hire boats are out on the water, the restaurants are busy and the whole place has a genuinely festive atmosphere. This is when Malaga locals make the trip – on a hot August weekend the lakeside has a surprisingly beach-day feel than you might expect this far inland. Get there early to secure parking and a restaurant table, and bring shade – there isn’t much of it at the water’s edge.

Spring (March to May) is arguably the most beautiful time to visit. The reservoir levels are high after winter rains, the surrounding hills are green, wildflowers line the roadsides and the air is cool enough to make the drive and any walking genuinely pleasant. The water sports operators may not yet be open, but if your priority is scenery and a good lunch rather than paddling, spring is hard to beat.

Autumn (September to October) offers a quieter version of summer. The water is still warm from the season just gone, the crowds have thinned and the light on the mountains in the late afternoon is exceptional. Early October is a sweet spot — warm enough to sit outside comfortably, calm enough to feel like you’ve got the place to yourself.

Winter (November to February) is the locals’ secret. Visitor numbers drop dramatically, the restaurants are quieter and the landscape takes on a more dramatic quality. Water sports are off the table and swimming is only for the very brave, but for walking, photography and a long lunch with the mountains to yourself, it has a quiet appeal that the summer crowds never get to experience.

One note for any season: the valley is famously windy. It’s the price you pay for that particular combination of geography — mountains funnelling air down through the gorge. It rarely ruins a day but it’s worth knowing about before you set your heart on a picnic. Pack a layer and hold on to your hat even in summer.

An introduction to the lakes in Malaga

Although everyone refers to them as lakes they’re actually reservoirs. The three giant reservoirs – known as the Conde del Guadalhorce reservoirs – are located about 30km north of the city in the Guadalhorce River valley. As well as supplying Malaga city with drinking water they provide a great recreational space for water sports in the summer and fishing and walking all year-round.

The lakes in Malaga are a favourite spot for camping and their calm turquoise waters make a nice change from the Mediterranean.

Did you know? The water from the lakes in Malaga has to pass through a desalination plant before it’s drinkable because one of the reservoirs is fed by a salt-water spring. Despite the best efforts from engineers, no one has been able to block off the spring.

Highlights

While you’re out and about at the lakes, don’t miss the following:

A drive across the dams

If you go to the lakes in the car, drive as far as you can along the reservoirs and over the dams. This drive gives you a good idea of their size and some of the best views.

Walks near the lakes

The area around the reservoirs has some of the best walking in Malaga province, and most of it sees a fraction of the crowds that the Caminito attracts. Our favourites are below, from a gentle lakeside stroll to a serious mountain ascent.

⛰️ Easy: Mirador de los Tres Embalses (approx. 1–2km, 30–45 mins)

A short stroll from the car park to one of the finest viewpoints in the area, where all three reservoirs spread out below you simultaneously. It’s the best quick orientation to the whole landscape and a great spot for photographs. Follow signs from the northern access road between the reservoirs.

⛰️⛰️Moderate: Mirador de las Buitreras and Pico del Convento (7.9km, 2.5–3 hrs)

This circular route climbs above the Gaitanes Gorge to a vulture lookout and on to the peak of Pico del Convento. You walk above the Caminito del Rey, looking down into the gorge rather than through it, with regular sightings of birds of prey. The descent can be tricky to navigate, so download the map before you go. Full route on AllTrails.

⛰️⛰️Moderate — Pico Azulejo (10km, 2.5–3 hrs)

A circular route near Ardales climbing to twin summits with sweeping views over the village and reservoir, particularly beautiful in late winter when the almond trees are in bloom. The terrain is stony in places with some loose rock near the top, so wear shoes with good grip. Full route on AllTrails.

⛰️⛰️⛰️Difficult — Pico Huma (13km, 4–5 hrs)

The dominant peak of the area at 1,191m – aka the balcony of Andalusia – has views to the Sierra Nevada on a clear day. The route is poorly signposted in sections, rocky near the summit, and best tackled in autumn, winter or spring with plenty of water and a downloaded map. Full route on AllTrails.

Lunch with lakeside views

At some point, you’ll be wanting food.

Eat in

There are a couple of reasonable lakeside restaurants and both have lovely views over the water. But neither has ever impressed us with the service.

• Restaurante El Kiosko is known for quick bites and value prices.
• Restaurante El Mirador has a larger lunch menu.

These are popular spots, so book ahead or get there early (1.30pm for lunch) to be sure of a table.

Eat out

We prefer to take a picnic and eat literally by the water. Stock up on staples at supermarkets in Malaga city centre and on gourmet bites at Atarazanas Market or one of the specialist grocery stores. Our guide to food shopping in central Malaga has all the information.

Caminito del Rey

Before the extensive repair work and major refurb, the King’s Walkway was definitely one of the most dangerous walkways in the world. It’s much tamer now but you still get an adrenaline rush as you walk along and look down and up at the river gorge.

It’s become one of the biggest attractions in Malaga and you need to book tickets in advance. Read our FAQs here.

Messing about in the water

There are several water sports concessions around the lakes where you can hire paddle boards, kayaks and canoes. You can also go swimming but keep within the designated areas (there are dangerous undercurrents in some parts of the reservoirs) and wear protective footwear (it’s stony and slimy underfoot!).

Where to hire kayaks

Several companies offer equipment hire on the lakes. Expect to pay €20 per adult and €16 per child for kayak hire.

La Garganta – 2-hour kayak hire.

Triangulo Activo – kayak and paddle board hire, plus climbing, cycling and zipline activities.

Aventura – kayak hire and guided kayak tours, plus paragliding, ebike rides around the lakes and Via Ferrata climbing.

Getting to the lakes in Malaga

There’s no public transport to this area of Malaga so the only way to get to the lakes is by car. Hire a car in Malaga and take the A-357 road out of Malaga (dual carriageway for the first sections). After about 35km you reach the village of Ardales. As you pass the village look for a right-turn signposted ‘Ardales El Chorro’ and then follow the signs to ‘El Chorro Embalses’. The journey takes about 50 minutes.

History of the lakes in Malaga

Along with the Caminito del Rey (King’s walkway), the reservoirs are one of the greatest feats of Spanish engineering in the early 20^th century. You only have to look at the size of their dams to see the challenge facing those engineers.

They were finished in 1921 when they were officially opened by King Alfonso XIII – a stone seat on the walkway over the dam commemorates the place where he sat and signed the papers. During his visit, he also walked along the narrow pathway built along the nearby river gorge and now one of the most exciting things to do in Malaga. 

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